by In Trieste
It’s been a tough couple of months for everyone. Some businesses are timidly reopening their doors to the public but some doors are still shut tight. This is the case of all historical cafés of Trieste, which for the first time since WWII have to face the dilemma: to reopen or to opt for closure?
These places, like Antico Caffè San Marco, Caffè Tommaseo and Caffè Degli Specchi are home to history, culture and literature world of Trieste. Alexandros Delithanassis, the owner of San Marco, says “Trieste risks to lose its soul.” Between debt and complete shutdown of tourism, the probability of closure is high.
Italian government’s lack of precise dates for reopening is making it hard on all businesses in Trieste. “We need to move on from bans to rules,” said governor Fedriga in one of his interviews. “Whoever respects the rules has to have the opportunity to reopen. FVG region is preparing a protocol with guidelines.”‘
We asked Caffè San Marco’s general manager Eugenia Fenzi to answer some of our pressing questions.
How have these past two months been?
Eugenia: At the beginning it felt surreal. Seeing San Marco completely empty and utterly silent, void of clients and the usual life, with all machinery off – all this brought tears to my eyes. It was definitely a punch in the gut, but I believe it was a feeling a lot of people shared during the first few months of the lockdown.
What was most surreal?
Eugenia: The most surreal moment was when we entered the kitchen. Our kitchen would literally work non-stop: at night our pastry chef Gemmi Rizzi (an expat from Thailand) would prepare pastries and cakes, then at 7 am a young Jan (an expat from the Philippines) would come in to make freshly baked croissants, and at 9 am the restaurant team would arrive captained by Matija Antolovic’, the head chef, who would close the kitchen down around midnight every day. In short, a big shock.
And after the initial shock subsided?
Eugenia: As weeks went by, we concentrated on putting all of our energy into preparing for the new beginning. We are revising the menu, and dealing with all the things we didn’t have time to deal with, like warehouses and bathroom renovations. Then, on April 14th we reopened our library and wine shop with a motto that reads Books and Wine are the Balm for the Soul, two things that made this lockdown a little easier. For everyone who misses San Marco, you now have a reason to come see us.
So what’s future like for San Marco?
Eugenia: It’s not the kind of question you would have an immediate answer to. As of now, there’s no fixed date for our reopening but also there are no clear guidelines that would make the reopening possible. What makes us hopeful is thinking about the history of our historical caffè and about all of the things it has already seen and been through, after all San Marco is 100 years old! This too shall pass and San Marco will rise again as it always has. We are hopeful and can’t wait to roll up our sleeves and restart.
What will change?
Eugenia: We hope as little as possible will change, and whatever changes will change for the better. The mere possibility of being able to eat, drink and celebrate together will be a moment of glory for each and every one of us. Perhaps this euphoria will make people kinder to each other and we will stop taking things for granted like we used to. I believe our whole community will benefit from it.
What will stay the same?
Our love for our clients.
