by Victor Caneva
All photographs courtesy of Victor Caneva
Bathed in soft, pale light, Trieste emerged from the gray moodiness of winter into the shining promise of spring, the most hopeful of seasons. A subtle warmth accompanies the morning breeze and, sometimes, the midday temperature on a brilliant April day can even tempt the most stubborn Italian to consider peeling off his puffy jacket before the solemnly appointed time.
Bird calls provide a fresh soundtrack to winding urban pathways that rested in near silence during winter as our city yawns and wakes from its slumber. Flowers festively fill Trieste with vibrant color and springtime pioneers head to Barcola, not simply to walk along the sea, but to get an early start on their tans. It’s all a little like the “twitterpated” scene from Bambi, but with fewer animals and more Glera.
The inside of my apartment was the central fixture of my inaugural spring as a Trieste resident. Lockdown measures, perpetually updated autodichiarazioni, closed shops and restaurants, and limits on how far from home we could walk made for a highly unusual introduction to springtime. Although I enjoyed watching the leaves sprout and then slowly envelope the nearby trees in glorious shades of green through windows that let in an increasingly pleasant breeze (accompanied by some potent allergens), I was more of a distant observer of springtime in Trieste than a participant.
Trieste in spring is magnificent and warm walks along the Rive or the Carso will offer us a stunning vantage point to witness this season breathe new life into our great city. We can finally comfort-eat all the putizza, titola, and pinza (traditional Easter sweets from the region) we can handle as we boldly commit to enjoy this spring.
Don’t forget to visit usual springtime events like Trieste in Fiore (a flower-centric exhibition held in Viale XX Settembre) and Horti Tergestini (a garden event held in beautiful Parco San Giovanni). A visit to the Carsiana Botanical Gardens, located in Sgonico in the Carso above Trieste is also a great idea.
With a little creativity coupled with our region’s splendor, this spring can be a season to remember. So, resolve to grab a capo, find a sunny spot, and take in Trieste in her spring best.
