by InTrieste
Trieste has been around for almost three thousand years and yet carries all that weight of history with a dolce vita lightness of heart. Whether you’re visiting Trieste for the first time, or you’re a long-time dweller in the city on Adriatic, here’s our ultimate guide for summer 2023.
Beaches
While you won’t find endless sandy beaches here, Triestini sure know how to summer and the best way to do it is by the water. Here are a few suggestions for some fun in the sun.
Pedocin (Lanterna)
Unique as Trieste itself, this beach has a wall that keeps men and women apart (to the apparent satisfaction of both sexes). Also, it’s a 5 minute walk from the center and if you are looking for a real Triestine experience, look no further (tops optional, capo-in-b and chit-chat with tanned locals mandatory).
Barcola
Most famous stretch of concrete known as the best walk in winter time and the place to get a tan in the warm days. Bring your towel or your lounge chair and don’t forget to give a few friendly nods to locals lounging under the pine trees.
Filtri
This free beach can be reached by braving 64 steps down from Auguste Piccard street on the crossing with Santa Croce. The fatigue will be worth it: crystal clear water, white pebbles and some pine trees for shade. Delicious dinners are served at Bellariva café located by the shore.
Canovella degli Zoppoli
One of the most picturesque free beaches along the coast. You’ll need to climb down a tiny path between the natural tunnel and the Ginestre beach. Once there, you’ll find a small picturesque marina and a typical local bar.
The Ginestre
One of the most famous seaside places in the 60’s, this beach is covered with tiny white pebbles. You can rent parasols, sunbeds and have capo-in-bs at the beachside bar with mind-blowing views of the coast.
A nudist gay friendly beach reachable by walking down a little road from the parking lot in front of the Costa dei Barbari café. The beach with cobbles and white pebbles is completely hidden in nature.
It’s fancy, it’s beautiful and it makes you feel like you’re at a French Riviera (well, almost). Magnificent pools, great service and beachside cocktails will make your stay here classy and cool.
Sistiana ex Caravella
You’ll find this gem hidden between Sistiana and the former quarry. This beautiful beach (both free and with the option to rent sunbeds) has a playground for kids, small white pebbles and the view of Castle Duino in the distance.
Where to Eat
A summer in Trieste isn’t complete without having sardoni in saor, delicious sea-side dish. It can be eaten on bread, and turns up in pasta dishes such as pasta is saor.
Ristorante Al Ferroviario
Plentiful fresh fish and seafood with a sea view to match don’t come cheap at Al Ferroviario, which literally means by the rail road. The seafood antipasti are on the expensive side for Trieste (€14 to €15), but you get big plates of fresh octopus, prawns and marinated anchovies. Pasta dishes include classics such as linguine with clams or mussels, for a reasonable €10.
+39 040422880
Eataly
Whether you’re looking for the best pizza al taglio in town (a slice of Roman-style pizza to go) or a delicious meal with a perfect view, this is the place to go. A very Italian place in a not-so-Italian Trieste, Eataly mixes high quality ingredients with class.
www.eataly.net/trieste, + 39 040 246 5701
Osmiza Verginella
Nothing says summer in Trieste like a trip to one of the many osmizas located on the Carso plateau. Osmiza is a private household from which farmers sell their homemade wine and food. Osmizza Verginella’s got it all- perfect view, zesty wine, cheese, prosciutto and beautiful atmosphere.
Reserve by sending a text : +39 3488049335, www.osmize.com
Where to Drink
The warm, breezy nights are ideal for a summer stroll, and there are plenty of outdoor cafes for when you get a little tired and feel like sipping a spritz bianco while enjoying one of the spectacular Triestine sunsets.
Baracchino di Barcola
This tree-shaded open bar facing the water is in the thick of the action during Trieste’s summer season. It serves good solid spriz bianco, and some snacks and often has live music backdrop.
Via Lungomare Benedetto Croce, Trieste, drinks from €3.50
Pier
Huge terraces offer views of marina on one side and the city center on the other in this lively seaside bar that’s a major meeting point. The sea views will no doubt distract you from the plain interior, but do look out for the fascinating wall of photos of villagers taken over the past half-century.
Molo Venezia 1, drinks from € 4.50
Harry’s Bar
As much for the drinks, as for the just right location this place is loved both by locals and tourists. Come for aperitivo, stay for sunset.
Piazza Unità, drinks from € 4.50
Where to Stay
Savoia Excelsior
This elegant hotel with timeless charm is only a few minutes’ walk from the main Piazza Unità. Mittleeuropean design and Austrian motifs come together in a perfect mix of timeless elegance and style. On warm days, breakfast is served on the terrace with glorious views of the sea. Some rooms have their own balconies or terraces.
+39 040 77941, https://www.starhotelscollezione.com/en/, rooms from €180
Agriturismo Milič
The hospitable Milič family run this peaceful agriturismo on farm in the Carso hills 30km east of Trieste airport. A 19th-century fortress-like building houses seven bedrooms furnished in Italian country style with heavy furniture and tiled floors. Pomegranate, lemon and grape vines frame terrace, and on clear days you can see the Adriatic Sea. The food here is exquisite – homemade gulash, civapcici and slow-cooked veal. On Sundays it’s rammed with families lingering over five-courses.
+39040 229 289, https://www.miliczagrski.com, rooms from €90
The Modernist Hotel
This smart boutique hotel is only a few minutes’ walk from Piazza della Borsa. Bold, funky design mixes a bit of 1950s modular furniture with exposed stone arches and blue motifs. Modernist’s location makes it a perfect place for a weekend getaway.
++39 040 0645690, https://themodernisthotel.eu, doubles from €138
