by InTrieste
Illustration: Viktroria Tsaleva
An osmiza, a private household in the Carso, where farmers sell directly and exclusively their homemade wine and food, usually from their cellar or basement, with tables, chairs and benches, spread out in their garden, vineyard or orchard, is loved by Triestini and visitors alike.
The term osmiza comes from the Slovenian “osem”, which means eight. In the past it meant that every farmer could open their cellar and sell locally grown products – wine, meat, honey, fruit, and vegetables – directly to consumers, without paying taxes, for 8 days per year. The condition was that the osmiza had to be clearly indicated with an ivy branch, along the road, and on the house.
The osmize today carry on this ancient tradition in an unadulterated way, embodying powerfully the historical and cultural heritage of the Carso. At an osmiza nowadays you can sip the strong red Terrano wine or enjoy a refreshing Vitovska or aromatic Malvasia, while nibbling on boiled eggs, rustic bread, prosciutto cotto [ham], salame, prosciutto crudo, pancetta, cheese, olives, pickles and other sottaceti. Yum!
Is there anything more summer in Trieste than a long afternoon with your friends at one of the osmizas? Here are some you should not miss this season.
- Osmiza Verginella Dean, Monday – Friday 17.00 – 22.00 / Saturday-Sunday 12.00 – 22.00, osmizaverginella@libero.it
- Osmiza Stoka E. E., every day from 12.00 to 23.00, 040 225859
- Osmiza Beltram Skupek Alenka, every day from 9.00 to 23.30, zdravkoskupek@alice.it
- Osmiza Radetic Sidonja, every day from 10.00 to 23.00, sidonja.radetic@libero.it
- Osmiza Tercon Lisjak every day from 9 am to 23.30, joskotercon@alice.it
- Osmiza Na Púnkišči, every day from 10.00 to 23.00, 040 299985
- Osmiza Pipan Klaric, every day from 9 am to 23.30, roklari@tin.it
- Osmiza Cacovich Igor, every day from 10.00 to 23.00, cacovich.dimitri@gmail.com
- Osmiza pri Branovih (Skabar Miloš), every day from 10:00 to 23:00, 339 7142498
- Osmiza Leban Bozo, every day from 10 am to 23.00, bozo.leban@siol.net
- Osmiza Stubelj Ivana, every day from 9 am to 23.00, 040 201149