Where To Eat This Summer? Osmiza, Naturally

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Illustration courtesy of Viktoria Tsaleva
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by InTrieste

Illustration: Viktroria Tsaleva

An osmiza, a private household in the Carso, where farmers sell directly and exclusively their homemade wine and food, usually from their cellar or basement, with tables, chairs and benches, spread out in their garden, vineyard or orchard, is loved by Triestini and visitors alike.

The term osmiza comes from the Slovenian “osem”, which means eight. In the past it meant that every farmer could open their cellar and sell locally grown products – wine, meat, honey, fruit, and vegetables – directly to consumers, without paying taxes, for 8 days per year. The condition was that the osmiza had to be clearly indicated with an ivy branch, along the road, and on the house. 

The osmize today carry on this ancient tradition in an unadulterated way, embodying powerfully the historical and cultural heritage of the Carso. At an osmiza nowadays you can sip the strong red Terrano wine or enjoy a refreshing Vitovska or aromatic Malvasia, while nibbling on boiled eggs, rustic bread, prosciutto cotto [ham], salame, prosciutto crudo, pancetta, cheese, olives, pickles and other sottaceti. Yum!

Is there anything more summer in Trieste than a long afternoon with your friends at one of the osmizas? Here are some you should not miss this season.

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