by Valentina Salcedo
The San Nicolò Fair returns once again this December 2023, marking its centennial celebration this year. The fair will take place, as usual, from Friday, December 1st, to Friday, December 8th, organized and curated by the Municipality of Trieste in the traditional area of Viale XX Settembre.
The fair was introduced on Monday morning in the Municipal Council Chamber of the Municipality of Trieste by the Deputy Mayor and Councilor for Economic Policies, Serena Tonel. Also present were Francesca Dambrosi, the head of the Economic Activities Service, and Claudia Collecchia, the curator of the Photographic Archive of the Civic Museums of History and Art.
“This event is not just an economic occasion for the city; it is much more. It represents history, tradition, and, from a social standpoint, a connection between the Catholic and Orthodox communities,” stated Deputy Mayor Serena Tonel. “The San Nicolò Fair has always strengthened community ties and remains an iconic place in the hearts of all Triestines, both young and old.”
“Reaching a hundred years of the fair is a significant milestone, and considering how consumer habits have changed, we felt that this achievement deserved a grand celebration,” Tonel continued. “I thank the offices of the Economic Activities Service, the Photographic Archive of the Civic Museums of History and Art, the Communication Service, and the Information Services. We have set up two photographic exhibitions, one at the Covered Market and the other in the foyer of the Rossetti Theater, creating an ideal path along the places where the fair traditionally takes place. Especially noteworthy are the multimedia contents, including videos and storytelling connected to the exhibition.”
“As part of the centenary celebrations, we have also produced a series of commemorative gadgets – coasters, bags, bookmarks – which will be distributed to all economic activities in the Viale XX Settembre area. Additionally, a banner will be displayed on the Municipality, emphasizing the significance of the event. Thanks to totems strategically placed in key areas of the city, we aim to attract attention.”
“The fair is crucial for both the participants and the public and commercial establishments around Viale XX Settembre. This year, spaces along Via Muratti and the last stretch between Via Rossetti and the Rossetti Theater have been removed, as this area has been less attractive to operators in recent years, reducing the available spaces to 85.”
“On November 28 at 6:00 PM, there will be a preview of the exhibition at the Rossetti Theater with the opening of the exhibition section. The official inauguration of the fair will take place on December 1 at 12:00 PM in Largo Bonifacio, and on December 6 at 11:30 AM, there will be an inauguration at the Covered Market.”
The two exhibitions were set up with negatives from Photo Omnia by Ugo Borsatti, Adriano de Rota, Alfonso Mottola, and the photographic agency Giornalfoto, preserved at the Photographic Archive of the Civic Museums of History and Art. These authentic cameos capture the festive atmosphere of the fair in the 1950s and 1960s.
The photographers documented the preparations with the arrival of carts loaded with merchandise, the setup of stalls, booths, the excited faces of children and adults, and the shouts of vendors who came from afar to extol the qualities of their goods. The photographic journey, guided by the photographers who visually recorded this special slice of the city’s history, describes a ritual over a hundred years. The photographic series presents images that are always the same but, at the same time, always different.
For instance, in 1958, San Nicolò arrived in Trieste in the flesh at the Central Station, rode in a nineteenth-century carriage, followed by two vehicles filled with gifts and a load of coal, and paraded through the streets of the center for a triumphant entry into Viale XX Settembre. In 1965, there were over six hundred participation requests; about three hundred were accepted, but space was insufficient, and the market overflowed into Via Battisti.
The festive atmosphere of San Nicolò’s celebration permeates the entire city: at the fair, near the Rossetti Politeama, in bookstores hosting extensive displays of the best children’s literature, in stationery stores, at school, in clubs, and associations. The Alabarda cinema, located in Largo Barriera, hosts the Teatro dei Piccoli, directed by Carlo Fiorello. The artist, known for talking animals led by the gorilla Makoko, presents the saint’s puppet on December 6.
At the Rossetti Theater, ten photos will be displayed in the theater’s foyer, and at the Covered Market, 39 photos covering the chronological period from the ’50s to the ’60s will be exhibited.
The San Nicolò Fair is one of the oldest and sweetest annual traditions. According to popular legend, the saint, originally from the Turkish city of Patara (270-343), descends from the sky on the night between December 5 and 6 to bring gifts to good children. Wrapped in a red cloak, his head covered by a golden mitre, and a pastoral staff in his right hand, San Nicolò, according to some traditions, is assisted in emptying his capacious sack by angels. Others claim he is followed by a donkey with sacks full of toys, fruit, and sweets.
Once upon a time, stalls were set up on Via Mazzini and extended into the nearby streets of Santa Caterina and San Lazzaro. In 1923, the fair was moved to Viale XX Settembre. Since then, the avenue transforms into a cheerful showcase of toys, sweets, cotton candy, scarves, hats, and various curiosities in the early days of December.
Exhibition in the Rossetti Theater Foyer: from Tuesday, November 28, to Sunday, December 10. Inauguration on November 28 at 6:00 PM until December 10, 2023. The exhibition will be open to theater spectators 30 minutes before showtime.
Exhibition at the Covered Market – Helical Area: from December 3, 2023, to Sunday, January 7, 2024, until January 7, 2024. Opening hours: Tuesday to Saturday 8:00 AM – 5:00 PM, Monday 8:00 AM – 2:00 PM. Free admission.
