by Alessandra Ressa
In the heart of Trieste, Italy, a magical tradition takes flight every January 6th, captivating the young and the young at heart. The enchanting Befana tradition at Grotta Gigante has become a spectacle that goes beyond the ordinary, blending folklore, daring feats, and community spirit in a celebration that leaves a lasting impression on all who witness it.
Loved and feared by Italian children alike, the spooky, witch-like character known as Befana embarks on her annual nocturnal visit on January 6th. As legend has it, she fills stockings with sweet delights for the well-behaved and sugar coal clumps for the mischievous. In Italy, this enigmatic figure takes over the age-old task of gift-giving from none other than Santa Claus, who, by this date, is presumably basking in the serenity of a tropical retreat. Growing up in Southern Italy, the tales of Befana held an added layer of intrigue for me, as my parents shared stories of walls transforming into ricotta cheese on this mysterious night. Move too much, and you risk leaving imprints on the soft walls, a telltale sign for Befana that you are awake and aware. The consequences were clear – a visit from the witch without the coveted goodies for the night. To this day, my association with Befanas and ricotta cheese remains a quirky childhood memory.
Fortunately, the city of Trieste offers a unique twist to this age-old tradition, bringing warmth and charm to the Befana legend. Contrary to the tales of soft cheese walls, in Trieste, the walls remain resolute leading up to January 6th – a fact that my children, during their younger years, eagerly confirmed by digging into the walls with spoons and indulging in the delightful crumbs. The Befanas in this region seem to embody a friendlier spirit, engaging in various festive initiatives to win the hearts of children.
Among these Befanas, one stands out as truly exceptional—the Befana of Grotta Gigante. Since 1984, this extraordinary tradition has graced the city of Trieste. Spearheaded by the intrepid speleologists of Commissione Grotte Eugenio Boegan (Società Alpina delle Giulie, CAI), this Befana takes to the skies in a breathtaking display that sets it apart from the conventional holiday celebrations.
Every year, as the calendar turns to January, these courageous speleologists don vibrant Befana costumes, concealing their helmets and full caving equipment underneath. Attached to ropes, they “fly” down the roof of Grotta Gigante, the world’s largest cave, descending over 100 meters to the cavern’s bottom. The children below watch in wide-eyed amazement as the speleologists embody the legendary character, creating a magical experience that resonates with the holiday spirit. The uniqueness of this event cannot be overstated, and for those who have not witnessed it or explored Grotta Gigante, it is an absolute must. Booking in advance is advisable, as the limited number of tickets available tends to sell out quickly.
The descent of the Befana of Grotta Gigante is not merely a solo performance. More and more speleologists join this adventurous bunch each year, adding additional characters to the holiday tableau. Alongside the iconic Befanas, you’ll find Santa Claus, the Three Wise Men, Rudolph the Reindeer, and an array of “old ladies” gracefully riding brooms—all descending on ropes in a captivating display. With over thirty caving enthusiasts participating in the descent, the spectacle is nothing short of awe-inspiring.
This downward invasion of speleo-Befanas is accompanied by live music, with some musicians even scaling down the ropes, enhancing the enchanting atmosphere. As the characters descend, candy rains down on the spectators below, creating an immersive and joyous experience for all. Meanwhile, just a few meters away from the landing ground, a much older caving tradition awaits—the Gran Pampel.
In the vicinity of the landing site, the audience can partake in the Gran Pampel tradition, an ancient potion prepared on the spot in a sizable cauldron by expert cavers adorned in evocative costumes. This elaborate and alcoholic drink, with roots deeply intertwined with the history of caving, offers visitors a chance to savor a unique concoction while soaking in the festive ambiance. The Gran Pampel adds a historical and cultural dimension to the celebration, inviting participants to connect with Trieste’s rich traditions.
To ensure a spot at this extraordinary event, tickets are available online starting December 1 at www.grottagigante.it. As the limited number of tickets tends to sell out rapidly, early booking is recommended to secure a front-row seat to the spectacle.
In conclusion, the Befana tradition at Grotta Gigante offers a delightful blend of folklore, daring descents, and community festivities. This annual spectacle not only mesmerizes children but also captures the hearts of those seeking a unique and memorable way to celebrate the holiday season. As the Befana of Grotta Gigante takes flight each year, she brings with her a sense of wonder and magic, transforming a cavernous space into a realm of enchantment that embodies the spirit of the season.
