Words and photography: Victor Caneva
Collina will always be one of the most special places in the world to me. Magnificently nestled in an alpine valley at the foot of Mount Coglians, Friuli Venezia Giulia’s highest peak, Collina di Forni Avoltri is swathed in natural splendor. But what really tugs at my heart are the people.
My great-grandfather, orphaned at 14 and brought to Pennsylvania by an uncle during one of the first of several waves off massive emigration from impoverished Carnia, did not speak often about the village of his birth to his two sons. Only nebulous recollections of his early life were transmitted down the line until even the name “Collina” was lost from the family’s consciousness. By the time I came along, we all thought he was from Forni Avoltri, a larger village which administers the frazione of Collina.
That all changed when I got a call from my mother about five years ago. Surprised to hear the voice of a stranger speaking Italian and telling me I needed to come visit some place called Collina was quite an invigorating jolt as I sat in my car in Florida. My parents were on their first trip to Forni Avoltri and had just met Ines Caneva. Through Ines’ generosity and her connections in Collina and Forni Avoltri, we were able to retrace a family history that was nearly lost forever.
Now I know. Now, I’ve had a beer in the house good-old great grandad was born in. Now, I’ve learned that I’m descended from resilient souls that lived in Collina (or adjoining Collinetta) for at least four centuries before emigrating to the United States.
The first thing that strikes you about Collina is the staggering beauty of the place. Peaks rise in every direction and verdant meadows, blazing white snow, electric blue sky, and the grey of imposing cliffs combine to form an awe-inspiring scene. The second thing you notice is the silence.
Collina’s silence is both restorative and melancholy. Most of us rarely experience this sort of stillness that facilitates the reflection and contemplation we so desperately need. The silence is melancholy because Collina used to be a livelier place.
Like many mountain villages around the world, Collina has struggled to adapt to the economic and social transformations of the last century. Many residents have had to move away to make a living. Those that stay must be extremely dedicated and creative, working in unbelievable beauty, but lacking many of the infrastructure investments their more urban competitors enjoy.
Now, fewer people than ever call Collina home, but it has left its mark on many. As the last village before trailheads for Mount Coglians and the pristine Lake Volaia, multitudes have traveled through Collina before legendary treks in the Alps. Every August, Collina hosts multinational participants of the Staffetta 3 Rifugi, an Alpine relay race with stops at three nearby rifugi (mountain establishments that offer lodging to hikers and exceptional local food) including the Rifugio Marinelli, the highest rifugio in FVG at 2120 meters (6,956 feet). I’ve been surprised and thrilled by how many people in Trieste have at least heard of Collina.
Collina is even the birthplace of the social cooperative in Friuli Venezia Giulia. In 1880, local teacher and renaissance man Eugenio Caneva, seeing the fruits of cooperatives in Lombardy and Belluno, instituted the region’s first social dairy, where residents pooled their resources to successfully compete with the larger cheesemaking industry. This innovative and communal spirit lives on in many social cooperatives producing out of this world products in FVG today.
Last year Ines and her daughter, Eleonora, had a great idea. They started a campaign to encourage everyone from all over the world who has been moved by Collina to send a postcard expressing well-wishes to the town. Symbolically, the cards were addressed to the old social dairy building, representing a time when passion and innovation saw the community through a difficult season.
As Ines and Eleonora’s idea was featured in regional publications and radio shows, cards started to pour in. Finally, a grand event was held at the Staipo da Canobio, a Collina institution and home to the best frico around, to present the postcards that had streamed in from the four corners of earth over the past year.
Over 700 cards from every continent (well… Antarctica didn’t make it) were displayed, allowing residents and Collina enthusiasts to read the messages written to the community. Dr. Sandra Romanin, the mayor of Forni Avoltri; Luca Caneva, president of the Circolo Culturale E. Caneva; and Ines all shared from their hearts as they spoke about the village. Mayor Romanin spoke of overcoming the inherent challenges of rural mountain life. Luca Caneva relayed elements of Eugenio Caneva’s legacy and related them to the village’s current realities. Ines, truly passionate about Collina and her heritage, shared about the motivation to celebrate a unique place that means so much to so many.
The next morning, I ran into Mayor Romanin while having coffee. As we spoke about what could be done to reinvigorate these priceless mountain communities, she highlighted the importance of innovation and forward thinking while remembering the history and traditions that make these hamlets distinct. She shared ideas about ways to cooperate with more urban communities by sharing the unique skill sets and understanding of nature that locals are blessed with.
Some young Culinòts (as people from Collina are called in the local dialect) are living this out actively and have formed CoopMont, a cooperative with the aim of promoting the cultivation and celebration of a rare and delicious variety of cabbage that grows only around Collina. They have been recognized as a Slow Food Presidia – a group dedicated to protecting local products and preserving traditional agricultural methods. Every October, the village hosts the Festa dei Cavoli Nostri (which in Italian is pretty hilarious wordplay) to promote the special produce.
Though there is melancholy in the quiet of Collina and intimidating obstacles to overcome, I am hopeful that its powerful combination of a matchless location and the creativity of its people (or passionate transplants) could set this charming village on a new trajectory. Living or sojourning in Collina would be a dream for naturally-minded writers, content creators, remote workers, or digital nomads. With support to modernize the technology infrastructure, creative and financial investment from innovative minds, and passion for preserving its extraordinary cultural heritage, beautiful Collina could very well experience a renaissance.
Victor! This is such a wonderful article, such a pleasure to read and so filled with interesting facts and emotions. I have heard of Collina but never visited, what a fascinating place, I certainly will try to now. Happy New Year!