by InTrieste
Trieste has been around for almost three thousand years and yet carries all that weight of history with a dolce vita lightness of heart. Whether you’re visiting Trieste for the first time, or you’re a long-time dweller in the city on Adriatic, here’s our ultimate guide for summer 2024.
Beaches
No one does summer quite as well as Triestini. Life in the city slows down as the temperatures rise and locals head to the seaside. Here’s our ultimate summer guide to our city’s best beaches.
Pedocin (Lanterna)
Unique as Trieste itself, this beach has a wall that keeps men and women apart (to the apparent satisfaction of both sexes). Also, it’s a 5 minute walk from the center and if you are looking for a real Triestine experience, look no further (tops optional, capo-in-b and chit-chat with tanned locals mandatory).
Barcola
The famous stretch of concrete known as the best walk in winter time and the place to get a tan in the warm days. Bring your towel or your lounge chair and don’t forget to give a few friendly nods to locals lounging under the pine trees.
Filtri
This free beach can be reached by braving 64 steps down from the Auguste Piccard street on the crossing with Santa Croce. The fatigue will be worth it: crystal clear water, white pebbles and some pine trees for shade. Delicious dinners are served at Bellariva café located by the shore.
Canovella degli Zoppoli
One of the most picturesque free beaches along the coast. You’ll need to climb down a tiny path between the natural tunnel and the Ginestre beach. Once there, you’ll find a small picturesque marina and a typical local bar.
The Ginestre
One of the most famous seaside places in the 60’s, this beach is covered with tiny white pebbles. You can rent parasols, sunbeds and have capo-in-bs at the beachside bar with mind-blowing views of the coast.
Costa dei Barbari
A nudist gay friendly beach reachable by walking down a little road from the parking lot in front of the Costa dei Barbari café. The beach with cobbles and white pebbles is completely hidden in nature.
It’s fancy, it’s beautiful and it makes you feel like you’re at a French Riviera (well, almost). Magnificent pools, great service and beachside cocktails will make your stay here classy and cool.
Sistiana Caravella
You’ll find this gem hidden between Sistiana and the former quarry. This beautiful beach (both free and with the option to rent sunbeds) has a playground for kids, small white pebbles and the view of the Duino Castle in the distance.
Where To Eat? Osmiza, naturally.
An osmiza, a private household in the Carso, where farmers sell directly and exclusively their homemade wine and food, usually from their cellar or basement, with tables, chairs and benches, spread out in their garden, vineyard or orchard, is loved by Triestini and visitors alike.
The term osmiza comes from the Slovenian “osem”, which means eight. In the past it meant that every farmer could open their cellar and sell locally grown products – wine, meat, honey, fruit, and vegetables – directly to consumers, without paying taxes, for 8 days per year. The condition was that the osmiza had to be clearly indicated with an ivy branch, along the road, and on the house.
The osmize today carry on this ancient tradition in an unadulterated way, embodying powerfully the historical and cultural heritage of the Carso. At an osmiza nowadays you can sip the strong red Terrano wine or enjoy a refreshing Vitovska or aromatic Malvasia, while nibbling on boiled eggs, rustic bread, prosciutto cotto [ham], salame, prosciutto crudo, pancetta, cheese, olives, pickles and other sottaceti. Yum!
Is there anything more summer in Trieste than a long afternoon with your friends at one of the osmizas? Here are some you should not miss this season.
- Osmiza Verginella Dean, Monday – Friday 17.00 – 22.00 / Saturday-Sunday 12.00 – 22.00, osmizaverginella@libero.it
- Osmiza Stoka E. E., every day from 12.00 to 23.00, 040 225859
- Osmiza Beltram Skupek Alenka, every day from 9.00 to 23.30, zdravkoskupek@alice.it
- Osmiza Radetic Sidonja, every day from 10.00 to 23.00, sidonja.radetic@libero.it
- Osmiza Tercon Lisjak every day from 9 am to 23.30, joskotercon@alice.it
- Osmiza Na Púnkišči, every day from 10.00 to 23.00, 040 299985
- Osmiza Pipan Klaric, every day from 9 am to 23.30, roklari@tin.it
- Osmiza Cacovich Igor, every day from 10.00 to 23.00, cacovich.dimitri@gmail.com
- Osmiza pri Branovih (Skabar Miloš), every day from 10:00 to 23:00, 339 7142498
- Osmiza Leban Bozo, every day from 10 am to 23.00, bozo.leban@siol.net
- Osmiza Stubelj Ivana, every day from 9 am to 23.00, 040 201149
Where to Drink
The warm, breezy nights are ideal for a summer stroll, and there are plenty of outdoor cafes for when you get a little tired and feel like sipping a spritz bianco while enjoying one of the spectacular Triestine sunsets.
Baracchino di Barcola
This tree-shaded open bar facing the water is in the thick of the action during Trieste’s summer season. It serves good solid spriz bianco, and some snacks and often has live music backdrop.
Via Lungomare Benedetto Croce, Trieste, drinks from €3.50
Pier
Huge terraces offer views of marina on one side and the city center on the other in this lively seaside bar that’s a major meeting point. The sea views will no doubt distract you from the plain interior, but do look out for the fascinating wall of photos of villagers taken over the past half-century.
Molo Venezia 1, drinks from € 4.50
Harry’s Bar
Exquisite drinks at a perfect location loved both by locals and tourists. Come for aperitivo, stay for sunset.
Piazza Unità, drinks from € 6.50
Where to Stay
Savoia Excelsior
This elegant hotel with timeless charm is only a few minutes’ walk from the main Piazza Unità. Mittleeuropean design and Austrian motifs come together in a perfect mix of timeless elegance and style. On warm days, breakfast is served on the terrace with glorious views of the sea. Some rooms have their own balconies or terraces.
+39 040 77941, https://www.starhotelscollezione.com/en/, rooms from €180
Agriturismo Milič
The hospitable Milič family run this peaceful agriturismo on farm in the Carso hills 30km east of Trieste airport. A 19th-century fortress-like building houses seven bedrooms furnished in Italian country style with heavy furniture and tiled floors. Pomegranate, lemon and grape vines frame terrace, and on clear days you can see the Adriatic Sea. The food here is exquisite – homemade gulash, civapcici and slow-cooked veal. On Sundays it’s rammed with families lingering over five-courses.
+39040 229 289, https://www.miliczagrski.com, rooms from €90
The Modernist Hotel
This smart boutique hotel is only a few minutes’ walk from Piazza della Borsa. Bold, funky design mixes a bit of 1950s modular furniture with exposed stone arches and blue motifs. Modernist’s location makes it a perfect place for a weekend getaway.
++39 040 0645690, https://themodernisthotel.eu, doubles from €138
