by Alessandra Ressa
The real name of this vegetable, Cichorium intybus, sounds like a Harry Potter spell—and to both the eye and palate, it is truly magical. Known as Rosa di Gorizia, this ancient radicchio, unique to Friuli Venezia Giulia, resembles a blooming rose and has recently become a favorite ingredient in gourmet restaurants, where it is served raw as a true delicacy.
Rosa di Gorizia has been cultivated for three centuries exclusively in the fields of northeastern Italy, in an area known as Collio, on the hills around Gorizia, where excellent wine is also produced. The unique characteristics of the terrain—including its stony floodplain that retains water during dry summers, the red soil rich in iron, the Isonzo River spreading frost through the fall and winter months, and the strong Bora wind sweeping mercilessly across the plains—all contribute to the distinctiveness of this radicchio.
In 1873, the Austrian baron Carl von Czoernig first documented its cultivation, calling it “red chicory,” though it is believed that local farmers had been growing and selling it at least a century earlier. Traditional farming methods involve planting in spring alongside wheat or during winter with winter grains. The radicchio reaches full size by October, with the harvest beginning in late November.
This radicchio is so stunning that one might hesitate to eat it—it looks like a work of art, perfect as a table decoration and far more original than traditional flowers in a vase. The Rosa di Gorizia graces the finest plates of regional cuisine. Crisp, with a strong, slightly bittersweet flavor, it is best eaten raw shortly after harvesting, accompanied by poached potatoes and beans, and drizzled with extra virgin olive oil and a touch of fine wine vinegar. It is also commonly served warm, paired with melted pork fat. For a modern twist, try it with ripe avocado and olive oil—a combination that might just feel like a mystical experience and could even prove addictive.
Despite its culinary allure, the Rosa di Gorizia had been largely forgotten for decades. Generations of farmers guarded the precious seeds jealously, and the long, labor-intensive cultivation process, combined with the limited geographical area suitable for growing this radicchio, led to a decline in production. This unique variety was nearly lost to history.
Fortunately, about ten years ago, a group of farmers established the Associazione Produttori della Rosa di Gorizia. Thanks to their efforts, this exquisite radicchio has made a triumphant return to our tables and is now available at local farmers’ markets, such as the one in Piazza Sant’Antonio.
Given its limited production and the time required to cultivate it, prices are reasonable but not cheap, averaging 5 to 6 euros per 100 grams. The Rosa di Gorizia cannot be stored for more than two or three days, and cheaper varieties sold under different names may not match its quality.
Today, the Rosa di Gorizia is considered a regional delicacy and may soon receive protected status from the European Union. If you think it’s too expensive, consider this: it is being exported as far as Hong Kong, where food lovers are willing to pay over 60 euros per 100 grams to savor this extraordinary piece of Italian heritage.
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