by MK
Fulvio Marino, handsome baker who charms Italy every afternoon on Rai Uno, and now an author of cookbook Dalla Terra al Pane (From Ground to Bread), talks about his life-long passion for all things flour.
Piemonte native — and a proud family member of Mulino Marino group — Marino rapidly rose to stardom in “Sempre Mezzogiorno,” a daily food show on the national Italian channel Rai Uno.
In the short videos from the show he posts daily on his Instagram channel, Fulvio is committed, with scientific rigor and dazzling creativity, to nailing the perfection of every day bread making.
Everything’s done with a charismatic grin and so much charm, he makes you want to learn how to bake yourself.
Fulvio, who among other things is the lead baker at Eataly, the retail-and-restaurant temple to Italy’s gastronomy, answered some of our pressing questions.
How did you decide to become a baker?
Fulvio: I grew up playing around freshly ground flour bags at my family’s mill (Mulino Marino) in Piemonte. My dad, uncle and grandfather are experts in the field and in a way I was destined to become one, too.
Why did your company chose to work with Eataly?
When Eataly was just starting out in 2007 they were searching for slow food producers as their goal was to work directly with families. My family and Oscar Farinetti’s family go way back as my grandpa and Oscar’s dad were in the WWII together. We knew we shared the same values as my family’s company always works directly with families. With the opening of Eataly Torino in 2007 we were able to go 100% organic, meaning we don’t use chemical fertilizers, pesticides or herbicides. We share the same values and respect for tradition, quality and technique.
You’re the lead baker of Eataly in Italy and around the globe. What’s that like?
The biggest challenge for us is to make sure that the bread we make in Trieste is the same bread we make in New York City. And one of the secrets is to have a well-prepared team. You know, for us Italians, putting mozzarella and basil on top of pizza is in our DNA, we do it without thinking twice, whereas in US it’s not the same. When I’m in US, I make sure that the Italian recipes are followed to the dot but that local products are also used.
Only Italian recipes?
We create various recipes, based on the location of the store. For example, US is big on cold cuts and cheeses, so we use these products as pizza toppings. I myself learned a lot about hamburgers in America, and the use of eggs and butter, which I later included in my recipes back in Italy. The beauty of it is that there’s always a cultural exchange.
What do you think about Trieste?
I came to Trieste for the first time in 2017 when Eataly store opened here and instantly fell in love with the city. I have a really good feeling about it – people seem to have a lot of enthusiasm and great appreciation for good cuisine. Trieste is probably one of my favorite cities in Italy and since my last name Marino means “marine” (even though I was born in Piedmont), I can’t help but feel a strong connection to the place.
What bread would you say represents Trieste?
Good question. Definitely a focaccia bread, like in Genova, with local products on top. When I think of Trieste I think of prosciutto cotto or crudo, or pizza with San Daniele ham on top.
Your favorite bread?
Tricky question to answer as I have many. I guess my favorite bread that we make at Eataly is otto tondo. It’s about 2 kg big and round, made with 40% lievito madre (natural yeast). I love this bread because it has character. It’s called otto (eight) because you can keep it for 8 days and throughout its lifespan it continues to change: the first slice you’ll have will be nothing like the last one. It has a life of its own.
Fulvio Marino has recently published his first book Dalla Terra Al Pane (From Ground to Bread) available in all Eataly stores around the globe in Italian, as well as online.
