Interview: Maria Kochetkova
Photography: Erin McKinney
We interviewed Chiara Gulin on following her passions while living in the dream in her beautiful hometown, Trieste.
Are you a Triestina?
Yes, I was born and raised here.
How would you describe Triestini?
We mind our own business although that might make us seem a bit closed off. We love a good coffee, a good laugh, a good spritz. But on our own terms, do you know what I mean? Oh, and we definitely live in the past in many ways.
Did you study to become a baker?
Actually, I studied archeology at the university. In my early 20’s I was absorbed by the music world so much so that together with my friends we opened and directed a club called “Tetris” downtown Trieste. It was home to alternative music, but eventually it ran its course.
Do you play an instrument?
Yes, I play the bass guitar. I’ve always loved music and at some point wanted to become a music photographer. At that time I was completely immersed in music, but it seemed a tricky path to follow here in Italy. I was shy and insecure and didn’t think I was going to make it. So I poured the passion into “Tetris”, and those were some great times.
And how did bakery come along?
I always loved baking and making my own food. I was fortunate enough to live by the woods, so I had a big garden where I could grow vegetables and fruit. Eventually, I took some courses and interned in various places. My big break was applying for a position at Eataly.
Were you happy when you got in?
Absolutely, although it was definitely crazy at the beginning – there was so much to learn and so many things to become better at. I learned everything I know from my former head baker, Sergio Villa. Not to mention Fulvio Marino, who taught me a lot at the very beginning. I’ve always been shy and Fulvio was so sweet to me – he is a true force of nature.
You became the head baker this year. It’s not common for a female to take on that role, right?
No, it’s not. The work requires a lot of physical strength- you have to carry many kg at a time. A basket of bread can weigh up to 10 kg. As the head baker, there are many things to do and lots to think about but I’ve always planned one step ahead. I am sensitive but very practical, and that helps a lot. I’m definitely living my dream.
So do you guys wake up at the crack of dawn?
Yes, that’s part of the lifestyle. Shifts here start around 5-5.30 am. The bread is always prepared the day before but once we get in we have to bake it. We use different types of sourdough, a small amount of baker’s yeast or none at all, put the dough in the cellar at around 2 pm until the next morning. We keep baking the bread throughout the morning so sometimes you can get the loafs that are still pretty warm. At Eataly we’re a bit spoiled as usually bakers start around 2 am.
Other passions?
I love yoga. I’ve been practicing Ashtanga yoga for years now and it’s one of those other passions I feel the need to pursue.
Future plans?
I’m still learning a lot here, so I’ll continue doing that. And follow my dreams, of course.
